We have now moved on from Heiligenblut and its wonderful surroundings and
are now at the small town of Lofer in the Salzburg province of Austria. We
had a great last few days at Heiligenblut making the most of the walking,
cycling, and amazing scenery.
On Saturday I decided to go for broke and went on another wee mountain bike
tour. My destination was Franz-Josefs-Hohe where you get the best views of
the Grossglockner mountain range and also the Pasterze glacier. The cycle
route was most stunning. The total climb on the route was from 1200 at site
level to 2370 up at the top of the route. The initial ride was up through
forest on a rough trail, and then the final ascent was on the main road. It
was not an easy climb by any means and at some points on the final stretch
you look ahead to see what is coming and you think 'oh my god'. After all
the effort and once you finally arrive the view is just breathtaking, and
the adrenalin from the ride and the achievement keeps you pumped up for a
while. It was a bit chilly compared to down in the valley and I was glad I
had taken my fleece with me. I had decided on this trip to take the camera
as I had my backpack with essentials in it, so I managed to take many a
picture on route and at the top, and also on the way down, the odd video
clip or two. I managed at one point to get up to 43mph on the descent on the
road, crazy but brilliant. It took 1hr45 to get up and only 20mins to get
back, 11 miles each way. Sunday, funnily enough, was a day of rest, although
I didn't feel tired after the thrill of it all.
On Monday we went off first thing for a short run and a walk just down the
road from the site. We ended up getting carried away with ourselves and
headed much further down the valley than we had intended. We climbed up a
while and then dropped back down, jogging some of the way. I had thought we
could do a round trip but in the end we could not seem to find where the
return path started, so we had to back track all the way. We did however see
hundreds of butterflies of many a variety, and also a nesting pair of
falcons of some sort up in the pinewoods. We did not have our binoculars
with us so we could not hope to identify them.
We had originally planned to go for a hike if the weather was good, which it
was, so we took the ski gondola from Heiligenblut up to the top station for
the ski area at Schareck, 2552m. Wow, mind blowing views set off by the
crystal clear blue sky. After a few snaps and a wander about we made the
descent on foot, back down to 1200m. The alpine flowers up there and on the
way down were more beautiful than words, or even the many pictures we took,
can do justice to. The descent was quite a long hack, just over 31/2 hours,
and very trying especially on certain areas of the leg as it was pretty
steep in places and you cant help but pound down as you walk. We weren't
tired by the time we got back to camp, but our legs we a bit sore from the
pounding, and also the morning 'short' run / walk!
Tuesday, pardon my French, but bloody hell our legs were sore. I know we are
not as fit as we should be but even getting in and out of the van was
painful as our leg muscles were very tight, silly fools!
After hobbling around for a day and resting up we took to the paths again on
Wednesday and went on a hike up the other side of the valley to Briccius'
Chapel. This is where Saint Briccius was apparently killed in an avalanche
on route from Byzantium bringing with him a vial purporting to hold the
blood of Christ. The vial after is recovery now resides in the church built
in Heiligenblut, which is where the town gets its name from, translated as
'Holy Blood'. Anyway, the walk was again quite steep at points on the ascent
but eventually once you get to the chapel at 1600m it levels off into a
lovely alpine meadow. The route was a circular one, so after a quick look at
the very small chapel we headed off and ended up having yet another very
steep but beautiful climb trough the pinewoods up to the highest point on
the walk at just over 1900m. Our legs were just about keeping up with us
even after the descent back to the valley, which stretched them out a wee
bit. All in all quite a long walk at about 41/2 hours, but well worth it for
the views you get.
We left Heiligenblut yesterday and came through the Grossglockner pass.
First off we went to Franz-Josefs-Hohe so that Sue could see the views for
herself. We got there very early, just after 08h00, and it was blissfully
quite unlike when I had cycled on the Saturday. Apart from the fantastic
views we also saw many a Marmot and also a few mountain Ibex. After leaving
Franz-Josef-Hohe we then made the main climb up the pass. Noddy managed with
out a problem although it was quite steep in places and we made good use of
2nd gear, the highest point on the pass being at 2571m. We stopped off for a
while at one of the many lay-bys and had our breakfast surrounded by
magnificent views. It was lovely and peaceful apart from the maniacs on
motorbikes and in cars who seem to think it is a great challenge to race up
and down the pass taking risks and generally peeing everyone else off, and
not really seeing anything of the scenery but a blur as they try and stay on
the tarmac. It is amazing how many people cycle up and through the pass,
both on day trips and also cycling tours with all their panniers etc.
clinging to the bikes, full of admiration for them unlike the aforementioned
maniacs.
Noddy's brakes were most definitely feeling the strain on the descent, as it
is very long with many a hairpin bend. We stopped off occasionally to give
him a rest and also to make the most of the fantastic scenery. The road
through the pass is a toll road and cost us 26€, but on the whole it is
worth it especially if you make a long day of it and do some walking etc. up
in the heights of the mountains.
Now we are at Lofer and the site here is very nice. We are in the 'no kids'
area, so it is nice and quiet. There is plenty of walking and cycling to be
done here also, so we will stop off for a week or two, or perhaps three, and
enjoy the warm weather, mostly in the mid 30s at the moment.
Cheers
M&S
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