After a few days of showers and sunshine we left Avola and aimed Noddy
firmly in the direction of Siracusa, well after a short excursion to Noto.
Noto is a very pretty little town and reputed to be the 'capital of Baroque'
by UNESCO. It was rebuilt from scratch after the 1693 earthquake, as were
many other historic towns, but it stands out from the crowd due to the amber
coloured stone that was used for many of the prominent buildings. Sadly the
Duomo was undergoing a major overhaul and clad in scaffolding and closed to
the public, typical, but it was still mighty impressive especially in the
aforementioned amber coloured stone that it is built from. We had a
delightful wander, which did not take too long as there are only really two
main streets to see. Our tour was slightly extended due to our indulgence in
one of the many cafes. The trouble with cafes is that the choice of cakes on
display is too overwhelming and makes a decision mighty difficult to make.
Eventually we settled on a slice of baked almond ricotta tart and a slice of
baked chocolate ricotta tart, oh and a due cappuchini. What can I say,
delizioso! Suitably stuffed we rejoined Noddy and headed off to Siracusa.
We have been here now for 5 nights so far, wild camping at the Porto
Piccolo. This is the nicest city on the island as far as we are concerned,
and we have wandered around aimlessly on several occasions just taking in
the sights and the sounds, oh and the odd taste or two! The weather has been
great since we have been here, hot and sunny. We have managed to keep
ourselves 'busy' walking, reading, eating, and dozing. Thankfully there is a
nice laundrette just up the road and we got some much-needed washing done.
It is not easy to keep on top of it whilst wild camping without having the
facilities of a campsite to use.
Today we made a day trip inland to Palazzolo Acreide. Apart from being a
pretty little town, some of the buildings are alleged to have the longest
balconies in the world, quite a bizarre claim.
Tomorrow we will finally depart Siracusa and head further up the east coast,
not quite sure where too yet, but aiming towards Catania and perhaps inland
again to Enna.
Ciao
M&S
Wednesday, March 28, 2007
You can have your cake and eat it!
Wednesday, March 21, 2007
Normal service is returned .. whaterver that is
Well, after all the problems with the email, I can't remember what we have
been up to.
We indeed have eventually left our very nice site at Punta Braccetto,
Camping Scarabeo, highly recommended if you ever come this way. The rain did
stop and we managed to get the washing done and exited stage left on the
Monday (12th), seems like ages ago.
Anyway, we have been mostly wild camping since then. Firstly we camped at
Marina di Modica, along the coast east from the site, a nice small seaside
town. We stayed in a large car park with about 12 or so other campers. It
was a bit like a pikey holiday spot. It was safe though, the police came and
checked a few times a day that all was ok, and the bread man came every
morning in his van delivering his freshly baked goods. The weather was still
wet, both mornings we were there, but we did get a couple of sunny
afternoons. We then moved on a bit further along the coast to Maganuco, a
small hamlet just west of the town of Pozzallo. We stopped for a couple of
nights just off a nice sandy beach parked up with a couple of German
campers. The weather had totally cleared by then and it was nice warm and
sunny again.
No surprise when we found out that Anne and Steve were parked the other end
of the beach from us. We had bumped into a friendly Italian in Pozzallo and
he happened to mention that he had spoken to some other 'early retirees' who
were camped just out of town. So, after our two nights on the beach we went
and joined them for the weekend at the sosta that they had been at for
almost 2 weeks.
A guy called Peepo owns the sosta and he works at the harbour in Pozzallo.
On his land he has a couple of large old wooden boats that were dragged from
the sea not too long ago. Illegal immigrant smugglers had used the boats.
They buy an old boat for just a few thousand euros in North Africa, load it
up with hopefuls for a few thousand euros each, and then set sail for Sicily
to dump them off. The lucky ones end in jail, the unlucky ones drown. They
had all been unlucky on one of these big boats as the never made it to dry
land. The coastguards stopped the boat before it made land, so the 'captain'
of the boat made them all jump and swim for it to save his skin, 80 or so
passengers, they all drowned as they couldn't swim, men, women, and
children. Peepo keeps the boats as memorials to them. I think the 'captain'
is still locked up, and will be for some time. Sadly it is an all too often
occurrence.
Anyway, we moved on again a couple of days ago, and stopped for a night at
the harbour of Port Palo di Capo Passero, the most southern tip of the
island. It always amazes us with the seeming attraction of harbours to the
locals. There were endless streams of cars driving in, going to the end of
the harbour, turning around, and leaving. Why, we don't know, but they love
doing it. They don't stop or get out, or look at the boats, they just whiz
in and out, a kind of afternoon stroll without having to work up a sweat,
most strange. We stopped there for the night, and had a nice pizza at the
harbour restaurant just next to us, very handy. The next day we had a very
nice drive slowly up the east coast. The small fishing port of Marzamemi was
very pretty indeed. A haunt of the local upper crust apparently. We ended up
at the Nature Reserve of Vendicari, halfway up the coast between Pachino and
Avola. We had a very nice sunny day and a very nice walk around the reserve.
Our main reason to go there was to see the Flamingos, and we did. They are
most strange looking birds, but amazingly coloured. The European ones are
not all pink, but are white with a hint of pink, but their wings have bright
pinky red flight feathers, stunning. We saw plenty of other birds and
lizards on our walk. We stopped for the night where we had parked, just
outside the reserve entrance. It was very quiet that night, very quiet
indeed, pitch black, and not a soul for miles, just the sounds of nature,
cool!
Yesterday we ended up at Avola and joined Kevin and Libby on the site they
had been at for the last week. We had a trip out yesterday to the nature
reserve and gorge just inland from here. It was very nice, but a long trek
down into the gorge to the bottom and to the icy clear water pools. It was a
long trek back up again too! I won't say too much but one of our party
reached the top with a little less skin on their nose and forehead. Not to
mention names, but it wasn't me, but the other male in the party. It had
rained a bit while we were walking back up and the path was a bit slippery
in places, Kevin went face down. He is ok, and is milking the sympathy a
bit. Thankfully he was ok to drive us back to site as we were in their van!
Phew, back up to date again. Are we leaving here today? Don't know, its
raining again.
Ciao
M&S